Mat ‘Nory’ Norgrove
Dan Cross profiles this up-and-coming young talent
In late 2008, 19-year-old Mat Norgrove, disenchanted with pumping iron and wasting weekends drinking in the social Mecca of South Windsor, walked into the Penrith climbing gym. It was a revelation. And in a short time he had worn out five ropes, 12 pairs of shoes, including countless retreads, all inspired by the hard men and women of the Blue Mountains.
When I ask Mat if he can recall his first route, he proudly states ‘Depleted Gonad Circumference (18), followed by an onsight of Jester (19)’. By way of demonstrating his remarkable progression, his tick list for the past six months includes: Dungeon Master (31), Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute (30), Pleasures of the Flesh (30), Microwave (30), Dude Food (29), Plastic Explosive Inevitable (29), Don’t Believe The Tripe (29), Camel Toe (29), Roof Raider (29), Equaliser (28), Hairline 2000 (28).
This rapid rise is attributed to many things; being inspired by seeing the greats of Aussie climbing doing their athletic gymnastics at Diamond Falls and sampling multipitch climbing on the walls at Pierces Pass, the pink granite of the Star Factory and the sticky dolerite of the Organ Pipes. But mostly it’s been a compulsion to succeed, combined with an anxious obsession to make up for lost time. Nory often comments that he wishes he had discovered climbing long before playing in heavy metal bands, making radio controlled aeroplanes, and writing to pen pals in Ecuador.
But Nory hasn’t done it all on his own. Twelve months ago his natural strength, enthusiasm, and obsession was noticed by Blue Mountain’s climber Andy Richardson. Andy recognised that Nory could benefit from some intelligent direction. A phone call later, Lee Cossey stepped in to provide a training program and some coaching. This was a real turning point. Nory learnt how to back-step and suddenly things really began to fall into place. Of course, he picked up much more from Lee. Most importantly, how to recognise and work on weaknesses.
At this time, Nory was struck down with glandular fever. However, this didn’t diminished his drive or love of climbing. For three months he continued to work his ten-hour days as an apprentice, train after work, sleep through the fevers at night and climb on the weekend. He has been hit hard with all kinds of injuries including blown pulleys, and elbow and knee tendons. But he has always found a way to keep climbing where many would have taken time off. Call it what you will, stupidity, compulsive obsession, those who know this amicable young man, know it’s all about his passion for climbing.
Currently Nory is working part-time at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym at Villawood and does some route-setting at Penrith. This has given him a lot more time and energy to climb. He has a stack of unfinished business in the Blue Mountains and Nowra because he’s like a kid in a candy store, frantically tasting everything. He’s also planning a trip to the Grampians soon and Tassie for a second time. It seems like an odd thing to say about someone who has been climbing a little less than two years, but the truth is he has matured ahead of his time. Due in part to the sheer volume of climbing, but probably more to do with hitting brick walls countless times and having to break down those walls. Even his gear speaks of years of climbing wear and tear, and yet it’s only months old.
This brief journey has brought him to this point in time. Armed with a solid base, he promises to go on to join the upper echelon of Australian climbing. Though he is well aware that those next few grades are a totally different ball game. He knows he will have to put in monumental efforts to make even the smallest of gains. But that’s what he does. It’s obvious that it’s not about numbers. It’s about doing his best, then working harder to be better. Above all Nory is very vocal about how he has found the ultimate lifestyle. Living and breathing climbing, hanging out with climbers, drinking coffee, and dreaming about that next crux.
